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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.